Mulch is usually made up of coarse particles of organic material like leaves, woodchips, hay or compost. It's added straight onto the soil surface in a layer about seven centimetres thick.
Mulch is a terrific water and garden saver. It prevents evaporation by shielding the soil from the sun and reduces (water) run-off during rain or watering.
Mulch will stop most weeds from growing and you'll find it easier to remove those that do. It will also cut down on the time you spend watering.
Most importantly, mulch will improve sandy and clay soils by adding organic matter and encouraging earthworms. Mulch can also be great in some areas of the garden as an alternative to a high water using lawn.
Making your own mulch is a great way of cutting costs and reducing garden waste. Remember, you need to treat mulch like compost and make sure it's not too fresh before using it.
Grass clippings can be used for mulch, but it's best if they're dried first or mixed with coarse material like twigs to avoid them forming a waterproof layer when they are tightly packed together. Lawn clippings are even better utilised if they are left on the lawn as mulch if you are not concerned about the appearance of lawn clippings on your lawn. Fallen leaves (avoid camphor laurel) and autumn foliage are also useful. If you have problems with leaves decomposing too slowly, run them over with a lawnmower and mix with cut grass or twigs.
This is one of the best materials you can use, not only as a mulch but as a soil improvement as well. These decay quickly and are full of nutrients. Manures are best mixed with other mulches, especially if the manure is fresh.
These decay quickly and suit most plants, and also provide nutrients like nitrogen to the soil. Be careful with other types of hay or straw, as they can contain lots of weed seeds.
These decay slowly, suit most plants and provide good nutrient levels. They're often from a recycled, organic origin and have added nutrients/fertilisers.
Recycling newspaper not only reduces waste, it suits most plants as mulch. Newspaper is better shredded or composted before being used on the garden. If you add layers of newspaper too thickly it will stop water penetration. It is also best to place heavier mulch, such as woodchips, on top to stop them from being blown away.
These decay slowly, provide few nutrients and can deplete garden soils of nitrogen (you'll need to add some nitrogen-rich fertiliser or plant some legumes like lucerne). They come from shredded street tree prunings.
These also decay very slowly, are low in nutrients but are useful around conifers. When using pinebark it is best to leave it to age for several months or by partly decomposing it in compost. This is because pinebark contains toxins which inhibit the growth of plants for a short period after the bark is first applied. They're not recommended for use near native plants, though, and can also cause loss of nitrogen (add a little organic fertiliser). They can make a good substitute for concrete or paved areas.
Firstly, clear any weeds from around your plants, break up the soil crust, and water the area. Spread the mulch evenly around the plants until the mulch is about seven centimetres deep. Leave a space of about six to seven centimetres around plant stems, otherwise they may get stem rot. Try to top-up the mulch every season, as most mulches break down quickly to become part of the soil.